Winter sports themes take center stage at the opening of Milan Menswear Fashion Week.
Milan menswear fashion week opened on Friday with a clear theme running through many of the shows. Designers leaned into winter, sport, and outdoor style, setting the tone for the season ahead. From ski-inspired looks to tailored pieces designed for cold weather, the early days of the event demonstrated how fashion is responding to both global sports events and shifting consumer tastes.
This year’s shows arrive at a time when Italy’s fashion industry is facing pressure, with falling exports and weaker demand. Even so, the opening collections suggested a mix of optimism, tradition, and fresh ideas.
Ralph Lauren Returns to Milan Menswear After Two Decades
One of the most talked about moments came from Ralph Lauren, who returned to Milan after a 24-year absence. The American designer presented a collection that blended classic elegance with rugged details. Tailored suits, tweed jackets, and refined coats were paired with sturdy boots and cowboy boots, giving the looks a tougher edge.
The show drew a strong celebrity crowd, including actors Liam Hemsworth and Tony Leung Ka-fai. Lauren’s designs reflected his signature American style while also looking ahead to a major global event. With the Winter Olympics set to begin on February 6 in Italy, where Lauren is designing outfits for the U.S. team, winter sports influences were clear.
The collection included references to Aspen, with patterned knitwear and a striking blue ski suit tied at the waist with a turquoise belt. These looks blended luxury with practicality, showing how winter clothing can be both functional and stylish.
Dsquared2 Brings Bold Winter Energy
Dsquared2 also embraced the cold season, but with a louder and more playful approach. The brand presented its autumn-winter 2026 to 2027 collection as a group of holiday-ready characters dressed for icy conditions.
Models wore oversized puffer jackets shaped like dresses, massive parkas, and bold footwear designed to stand out. XXL faux fur hats added drama to the looks, reinforcing the show’s slogan, which played on the idea of being “hot as ice.”
Canadian actor Hudson Williams opened the show. He is known for his role in the television series Heated Rivalry, where he plays a professional ice hockey player. His appearance added to the sporty atmosphere and linked the collection to winter athletics.
Alpine Themes Across Milan
The winter sports influence extended beyond individual designers. Armani’s sportswear line EA7, Italian outerwear brand K-Way, and Chinese sportswear giant Li-Ning have all planned Alpine-themed events in the lead-up to the Milan-Cortina Winter Games.
Li-Ning, which sponsors China’s national team, is using the occasion to strengthen its presence in Europe. These events show how fashion brands are aligning themselves with major sporting moments to reach a wider audience.
Zegna Focuses on Craft and Modern Tailoring
Earlier on Friday, Zegna offered a very different mood. Designer Alessandro Sartori invited buyers and journalists into what felt like a personal wardrobe. The collection featured structured jackets matched with flowing trousers, using natural shades like green and terracotta.
Sartori focused on innovative fabrics and careful construction. The result was a quiet, thoughtful collection that highlighted quality and long-term wear rather than bold statements.
Carlo Capasa, head of the Italian Chamber of Commerce, praised the approach. He described it as a wardrobe rooted in the past but designed for the future. According to Capasa, the show reflected a wider trend in fashion that values craftsmanship, tailoring, and a return to essentials.
Industry Struggles Continue in Italy
Despite the creativity on display, Italy’s fashion industry remains under strain. The luxury market slowdown has hit many brands, and the sector is also dealing with concerns around subcontracting practices.
In menswear, turnover fell by 2.1 percent in 2025 compared to the previous year, reaching 11.2 billion euros, according to Confindustria Moda. This represents a significant part of Italy’s textile economy, accounting for nearly 20 percent of the sector.
Almost every category saw declines, except for leather garments. Exports dropped by two percent, especially to major markets like France, Germany, and the United States. At the same time, imports rose by 2.8 percent.
Looking Beyond Traditional Markets
China, once a major growth driver, is now buying less Italian menswear. In response, companies are looking for opportunities elsewhere. Capasa pointed to new markets, including Latin America, following a recent EU trade deal with Mercosur countries.
The Middle East is also showing growth, and early interest is coming from Indian buyers. These regions could help offset losses in more established markets, though results will take time.
A New Chapter for Giorgio Armani
One of the most emotional moments of the week is expected on Monday, when Giorgio Armani presents his show in the brand’s historic Milan workshops. This will be the first menswear show without the direct oversight of the founder, who passed away last September at the age of 91.
Although longtime partner and collaborator Leo Dell’Orco has already been leading the menswear collections, this show marks a symbolic turning point. Dell’Orco has said the collection will focus on continuity, with small updates in size, color, and fabric.
He described the changes as respectful and measured, offering subtle signs of evolution while honoring Armani’s legacy.
More Highlights to Come
As the weekend continues, regular Milan favorites like Prada, Dolce and Gabbana are set to present their collections. British designer Paul Smith is also making a return, following his first menswear show in Milan last June.
With a mix of tradition, sport, and careful reinvention, Milan menswear fashion week is showing how designers are navigating a challenging moment while still looking ahead.
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